Saturday, May 30, 2009

Bridesmaid's Dress, 1st pass

This dress is cut on the bias, and it has a lovely drape even in the muslin. However, since it's cut entirely on the bias, it requires 60" widths only for the long version. You can get away with a 44" width if you go with the cocktail length view, but I strongly recommend you use 60" for the floor-length.

We first did a tissue fitting. I decided to go with size 14 through the bust and grade down to a size 10 for the remainder of the dress. But while laying the pieces out, the lines of the dress back didn't work well doing this, so I cut out a size 12 in the muslin. Pinned it together and it looks great on Katie, but needs to be lengthened a couple of inches.


I spent a couple of hours laying this out on the silk. The silk is 55 inches wide, and so the front didn't completely fit on the fabric. Dilemna! Vogue says to "slash" the pattern piece and piece in a patch. My first thought was to do this near the hem, but then I decided the best place was at the top of the pattern because that is where the self-facing is. This dress has a cowl-neck in the front, but it doesn't "gape" very much, so I think this will work better.

Here's how I did the "slash and splice". Make sure you align the selvage of the patch to be parallel with the front's selvage where you slashed. Slash no less than 1/2 inch in front of the selvage edge of the dress. Then take a scrap, align the selvages parallel, then cut out the slashed pattern leaving 1/2" where the slash is, to seam with the dress front. Hope the pictures below explain it better than my choice of words....



I ended up not lengthening the dress, because this would have exasperated the "slash" problem. I'm hoping I can get away with hemming it with lace tape. If that doesn't work, I may have to add an inch band onto the hem. Who gave that kid her tall gene, anyway, dag nab it!!!!!

Katie is away for the weekend, so this is as far as I can go without fitting it to her. I'll post again once she gets back home and we continue fitting. Ciao for now.........

2 comments:

  1. Wow! What a tutorial... I will now slink back to my simple skirts.

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  2. Ah now, Dear, simple skirts aren't always so simple, plu...I KNOW you've got talent just oozing out. When your time frees up a bit, you'll be putting out some cool tutorials. Can't wait ;)

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